UFO Chrome Metalic Finish

Marty,s comments:

>I have another option for what the metallic finish on the UFO could
>be. There is a product called bare metal foil, it is self adhesive
>mylar type foil finish. It has been around for a very long time. It
>was often used in modelling articles in the '60's, The reknown Chris
>Ellis book and the Airfix magazines spring to mind, I'm sure other
>modelling publication 60's reported on it as well. The downside is,
>it very hard to apply, particulary to compound surfaces, but if done
>well it looks sensational. Run of the mill modellers of the time
probably would'nt have bothered as it was essentially an American
>product and as far as I remember it was not widely imported into the
>UK back then, particulary in the less global times of the 1960's.
However, I'm sure the aquistion would have not presented to >much of a
problem to proffesional model-makers so that whats make me think it
>may be Bare metal Foil. I'm not aware it came as tape, but it may
have
>done, but the sheets could have easily been cut into strips.

Marty,although its possible ,I thinks its highly unlikely that
Derek Meddings UFO model was covered with this foil.
The main reason for saying this is that both Derek Meddings
himself and one of his model makers say they used chrome tape.Chrome tape was widely available at the time.I remember using it back in 1973,although I did,nt know enough about the UFO structure or design in order to able to
use it.I also thought that the model had been professionally
plated,so trying to replicate it would have been very difficult.

If you look at the picture of one of the actual UFO models on the Starship website you will see the conical centre has a definite stripe pattern suggestive of tape,although it is hard to see any patterns on the paddles, this could be due to the resolution/quality of the photo or /and lighting of the model.I think it fair to say model makers use what is easiest to get their hands on and chrome tape would have been
plentiful.One other clue about this foil maybe not being the material used on the model,is that it must have a very well prepared surface.The paddles I believe were cut from styrene.If this so then the cut edges would have been smoothed down flat.These edges would certainly not have been as smooth as the sides of the styrene paddles,which we know to be smooth and shiney.Its likely the bare metal foil would pick up this roughness and ruin the highly smooth
reflective quality required.It is clear from seeing the DVD,s
and Videos of the craft that these edges have no hint of roughness.I think chrome tape could have retained this essential quality.

Of course I stand to be corrected.The real way to find out would be to order some foil and give it a try.
As you are an experienced model maker Marty what do you think?

Regards Mark




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I have been modeling for about 20 years and found that Testors Model Master
Metallizers work best for a metallic finish. they come in a buffing and
non buffing enamels, and come in various colors such as Chrome Metallic, Jet
exhaust, gun metal.....you might want to try a combination. buffing allows
you polish the paint to a glossy bright finish but maybe leave it less
glossy or dull in other areas. The skin of the UFO was probably discolored
due to heat from the atmosphere and other conditions of space travel (or
combat with SHADO). Depending where you live you might want to try other
brands such as Humbrol if you do not have access to Testors paints.

Remember, very important to keep in mind, if it looks good to you then it is
right. The original modeler did not have the quality of paints and
materials as we do today and the REAL model looks nothing like what we see
on TV/DVD. Check out some of the Star trek modeling sites. The Original
enterprise model was actually a pale green color, but looks light gray on
the screen. As your model is scale, your paint should be scaled to the size
of the model - basically what looks good to you.

Mike Malone

> Of course I stand to be corrected.The real way to find out would be
to order some foil and give it a try.
> As you are an experienced model maker Marty what do you think?
>
> Regards Mark

Mark

The bottom line is, I don't know. I was just putting forward a known
and well understood modelling technique that would have given the
finished effect as seen in the series. The only real way to find out
what was used, is to get hold of a original, which I'm guessing is
nigh on impossible. I fully accept tape could have been used, but the
problems you describe in applying the foil would, I would also
suggest also apply to the application of tape.

My understanding was the construction of the original models were
out-sourced and the finishing and dirtying down was done in the
studio, so I'm sure a whole variety of modelling techniques were
probably employed, depending of what model house built the model in
question. I believe that on the larger Skydiver model some of the
panel detail was emphasised by the application of parcel tape !!!
Which kida supports you argument to a degree. But I imagine from the
pristine look of the UFO, it was one of the few models that may not
to have adapted in the studio.

As a model maker I'm not one to get hung-up on "must use" the same
techniques as employed on the original. If it looks accurate, it's
alright by me. I believe you are making a "small" scale UFO? and if
you are going for a authentic studio feel. Because of the change of
size you may find tape a little thick for the smaller scale, and if
you feel confident is using Bare Metal Foil that may be a way forward
to giving the feel you are after anyway. I would also suggest maybe
you consider going for a slightly duller finish. It's a rule that over
the years that has served me well. That when reducing the scale, it is
normally appropriate to reduce the paint finish by a shade. A good
example is when the prototype has a gloss finish, it is normally
appropriate to to finish a say a 1/72 scale model in semi-matt, a
gloss finish in 1/72 would look wrong in my mind.

I must admit I have not done any research on the UFO craft itself,
but I quickly dug out the Japanese UFO Super Guide a few moments ago,
that has a decent colour pic of a UFO. On a quick view it could be
the lines you refer to are actually corrugation, or pin strip tape on
a
darker backing, it's hard to tell. I would certainly have to do more
research before comitting myself.

Marty

As a modeller of 35 years (I started when I was 7 and never basically
looked back) I totally agree with Mikes sentiment! "If looks good to
YOU, then it is right", that is a spot on attitude. The hobby does
tend to attract thoses, that get hung up with the minutiae. I have
lost count of the number of models I have seen with all correct
appendages (aerials grilles etc) but say is lacking in the basic paint
job. My suggestion is get the major and basic elements right. If you
get a good paint finish, very few are going miss the little whip
aerial that's not fitted to say the underside!

Just another quick mention of the SNJ metalic finish paint. The reason
I mentioned this first time around is, it is'nt the run of the mill
rub 'n buff, as say the Humbrol is. SNJ comes with a metal
compound/dust that is applied/rubbed on. It is my belief you will be
able to get a almost chrome reflective finish with it. I do agree you,
may struggle with the Humbrol rub'n buff.

It was'nt my intention to start to look at the UFO itself at this
juncture, but now my gander is up so to speak :-)So I dug out some
more references last night. The striping on what I suppose call can
be losely called the fuselage of the UFO, I would have to say is more
than likely corrugation, rather than strips of tape. Although I guess
the easiest way to replicate it, especially in a smaller scale model,
would be to apply some sort of strips.

I would have to concur with Steve that the fins could be guitar picks,
this would help in trying to scale the model if building a 1:1 replica
of the studio original, this would also give a nice smooth surface to
apply a chrome finish to.

No one got a idea what the Lunar Module colour is yet :-) ??

Marty


>
> Remember, very important to keep in mind, if it looks good to you
then it is
> right. The original modeler did not have the quality of paints and
> materials as we do today and the REAL model looks nothing like what
we see
> on TV/DVD. Check out some of the Star trek modeling sites. The
Original
> enterprise model was actually a pale green color, but looks light
gray on
> the screen. As your model is scale, your paint should be scaled to
the size
> of the model - basically what looks good to you.
>
> Mike Malone

Michael & Denice Malone wrote:
>
> I have been modeling for about 20 years and found that Testors Model Master
> Metallizers work best for a metallic finish.

Not for Chrome. You should try ALCLAD. You can get a realistic chrome
finish with that stuff.
AT